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Honda GC190 Oil Change
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gastorms1
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Honda GC190 Oil Change
Changed the oil on my Simpson pressure washer for the first time. What a mess!
Manual calls for you to remove the dipstick and the bolt under it at the bottom of the engine. Oil flows all over the frame of the unit while trying to drain. I had even removed the wheel hoping to limit the mess.
Then there is no guidance on how much oil to add back, just gives a capacity of 20oz. I know now it holds much less than that on refill unless I did something wrong in draining? How do you tell the upper limit mark on the dipstick? On mine, the entire dipstick is cross hatched? Bottom edge of the oil fill hole, is that where the threads start for the dipstick?
Would appreciate any tips from the pros! Thanks!
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Pilot Dane
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"Oil flows all over the frame..."
There are drain valves you can install in place of the drain plug. Most allow you to attach a hose. Or you can get a pipe nipple long enough to get beyond the frame. Thread it into the engine and put a cap on the end.
"How do you tell the upper limit mark on the dipstick?"
The top of the cross hatch area. I generally consider the cross hatch to be the acceptable range though I fill to the top of the range.
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Dixie2012 voted this post useful.
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gastorms1
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I considered installing a nipple, but the ones I saw at Home Depot were brass and SAE sized, this one seems to be a M12 thread? Was concerned about dissimilar metal problems and getting a good seal at the engine. Can some one verify the size pipe I would need and where to get one? M12 x 1.0? Maybe there's a good kit somewhere with an aluminum pipe? I would think a pipe with a flange similar to the bolt factory installed would make the best seal?
If I do drain from the plug with a pipe there shouldn't be a need to remove the dipstick except to allow the crankcase to vent? So no need to turn the unit on its side?
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Honda engine book references this plug at base of engine on the dip stick side to remove. Messy!
This side(under the fuel tank on mine) looks like the less messy option with the hole in the frame. Maybe tilt the mower where the oil runs straight to the hole? 12mm wrench.
No full or add mark on my dipstick. Video I watched said the correct level was about half way up the stick without it screwed in. Unit on level surface. This puts the level close to the top of the engine hole threads. Maybe half way up the threads.
You're also advised to change the crush washer each time. Looks like it's part no. 94109-12000.
I'll try this next time I change oil and maybe mods to the drain port won't be necessary? The engine book was really lacking in info this time.
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Pilot Dane
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On many engines like that the oil level is full when it's to the top of the filler hole.
Since there is already a hole on one side I'd enlarge that for the oil drain.
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